What is Normcore Fashion?

Four years after the word Normcore was a runner-up for the Oxford English Dictionary's Word of The Year (losing out to 'vape'), it's time to untangle the surprisingly complicated meaning of the word 'normcore' along with its viral evolution and bizarre variations - menocore anyone?

The Origin of Normcore

The story begins way back in the dark ages of 2009 before Instagram even existed. A cartoonist named Ryan Estrada was invited to draw a guest strip for the comic Templar, AZ. He came up with a conversation about increasingly ridiculous subcultures, the punchline being 'Normcore. Dangerously regular dresses only in t-shirts and jeans, uses slang appropriated from other subcultures, but only three years after its first use, and only three years after it's been used in a sitcom'. Estrada promptly forgot the satirical poke at youthful tribes and got on with his life.

What Happened Next?

In 2013, unbearably cool trend forecasting agency K-Hole coined the term in their yearly report to describe a generation of youth that was over individualisation and into belonging. One NY Mag article later and the term was turned from a pensive description of a state of mind to a fashion trend that encompassed 'stonewash jeans, fleece, and comfortable sneakers' or off-brand New York ball caps... paired with turtlenecks, sweatpants, and boxy jeans'. The article cited Jerry Seinfeld as the unlikely icon of this new trend, and just like that the term went viral.

The Backlash of Normcore

By the beginning of 2014, the normcore style was already being decried as hipster nonsense, a cynical appropriation of pure intentions, a spoof, a massive in-joke. A fake trend that spun out of control. GQ spelt it out in bullet points with an article entitled '20 Reasons You, Normcore Guy, are an Idiot'.

Is Normcore Over?

By 2015, GQ, Highsnobiety and a host of other fashion publications had pronounced normcore dead. The trouble is, no-one paid attention. The runways have remained awash with normcore elements and the trend keeps resurrecting in new forms. 'Gorpcore' added puffer jackets, velcro and all sorts of sensible outdoor wear to the mix in 2017.

2018 saw a wave of windbreakers, bumbags and slides promptly christened 'tourist chic'. 'Dad style' celebrated tucked in t-shirts, pleated pants and pulled up socks. Most recently, this spring, Man Repeller announced 'menocore', a cross between menopause and normcore fashion. The trick is to dress like 'a mom in a Nancy Meyers movie or an eccentric ceramicist exiting her beach house studio,' or in other words, linen trousers and loose tops finished off with a scrunchie or bucket hat.

So... What Does Normcore Mean Again?

Ok, so. It's basically a response to the conspicuous consumption, fast fashion and logomania of the early 2010s, and just like the anti-fashion statements of minimalism and punk before it, it's become a trend of its own. The aesthetic - as well as the spirit - is a very nineties one, closely linked to slacker style, grunge and even heroin chic. Here are some loose rules.

1. Functionality above all else. Trainers, skate shoes, washed denim, low key sportswear, workwear, turtlenecks, baseball caps and if possible some sort of reusable water container.

2. Approved brands include Carhartt, Patagonia, Northface and Birkenstocks. Basically, all those things your Mum wears that you swore you never would. Vintage, obviously. This look should appear lived-in.

3. No overt logos, no glitz, nothing expensive (looking). The normcore style is about fitting in rather than standing out.

4. Nostalgia plays a key role, try and remember what you were wearing on a school trip in the mid to late nineties and buy grown-up versions of all of it.

5. If it's unisex, even better.

Three Normcore Inspirations

Phoebe Philo

The former Céline designer embodies the chicest version of normcore, the anti-fashion fashion uniform of loose trousers, turtleneck, trainers and a ponytail.

Shia LaBeouf

The unlikely fashion icon is so celebrated for his functional looks that there's an entire Instagram account - @shiasoutfits - dedicated to them. Scroll for daily normcore inspo.

Your Dad

Seriously. Embodied here by America's Daddy Barack Obama, note the oversized polo shirt, the high-waisted jeans and the uncool trainers.

A Normcore Watchlist

Early seasons of Friends

Before the group got financially savvy and started working their dream jobs, the Friends gang all embodied their own unique takes on normcore. The styling of the show emphasised the approachable-ness of the characters - their struggles were realistic and so were their wardrobe budgets. Note especially Rachel's sweater and pyjama bottom combo in The One Where No-one's Ready, and the whole group's Thanksgiving football look.

Funny Ha Ha

Normcore's filmic counterpart is mumblecore, a genre of oddly charming, low budget, independent cinema in which everyone has very long, improvised conversations and little actually happens. The very first mumblecore film, Funny Ha Ha from 2002 follows the post-college life of Marnie as she journeys through a series of life challenges and dorky t-shirts that symbolise her struggle to become a grown-up. Pure normcore. Nineties precursors Reality Bites and Clerks can also provide some retro sartorial slacker inspiration.

Scream

Final Girls provide fertile ground for normcore inspo since practicality is everything in the struggle to avoid the masked murderer and survive 'til the end of the film. Watch Scream, the ultimate nineties slasher, for Sidney Prescott's simple sweater, jeans and sneakers combos, as well as her boring-chic selection of suede, leather and denim jackets, a new one in each part of the trilogy due to those tricky-to-get-out blood stains.

How to Dress Normcore

A lot has happened since the initial trend went viral, here's how to do normcore for 2018 in four simple steps.

Style it up for Summer

Ditch the puffer and the waterproofs and style this trend for summer with the help of some light wash denim, an over-sized sorbet coloured polo shirt and slides over socks if you want to go full on Dad chic.

Gone Fishin'

While the trend started with sweatpants and baseball caps, this season's nod to sportswear takes the form of the fishing vest. If there's one normcore item to invest in, this is the one... but a bucket hat couldn't hurt either.

Mom bags

Forget jeans, the latest Mom accessory is the bag. Look for leather brands like Coach and Dooney & Bourke in sensible medium sizes for your A-Z and wet-wipes.

Make it Girly

Normcore is deviating from its unisex routes to encompass nineties grungy dresses and denim skirts. Pair the former with a checked shirt and the latter with a plain Champion sweatshirt for the perfect no-frills ensemble.

You can get more 90s Summer Pop Culture Inspiration in our blog, talking about our top 5 tv shows that keep the 90s alive.

Words Sarah Cleaver

Ever wondered about how your trusty pair of DM’s actually came about? In the first part of a new series all about our favourite footwear brand, we delve into the history of Dr Martens.

Who was Dr Marten?

The history of Dr Martens dates back to 1945 in post-War Munich, when an injured soldier, Dr Klaus Martens, created a soft sole for his boots to aid the recovery of his broken foot. Maertens then showed his creation to his friend Dr Herbert Funk (great name) and the two went into business, using discarded military supplies to make their shoes. In 1959 an advertisement for the revolutionary sole was seen by the owner of Griggs’ Footwear in England, a few modifications later, including the addition of the iconic yellow stitching and the ‘Airwair’ boot was born. The team used the date they were created, 1st April 1960, as their namesake and the iconic 1460 boot was born.

"Starting in 1901, the Griggs family were known for making boots in the small town of Wollaston, Northamptonshire in the English Midlands. They were at the very heart of the English shoe industry and for six decades Griggs’ footwear earned a solid reputation as sturdy, durable work boots." -Dr Martens

The brand was popular with people in the workplace for a sturdy, long lasting pair of boots. Then Dr Martens unexpectedly became the brand of choice for working-class subcultures and societal rebels, this was the beginning of their cultural iconic status.

Dr Marten’s in Subculture

The brand grew along with the consistent rise of British subcultures in the 1970 and 80s, from punks to goths, every disaffected youth of the time was wearing them and the trend for customising the laces and painting the boots was born. The trend had also moved across the water at this stage and bands in America were stepping out in DMs, taking the iconic boot worldwide. By the 1990s the grunge trend had kept DMs firmly in the limelight and the brand now became the choice for festival goers.

"Grunge turned the mainstream music world on its head and took Dr. Martens along for the ride. Back in Britain, Britpop rebelled against this so-called ‘loser kid’ apathy but did so in the same boots, the 1460.

The emergence of nu-metal and very early emo saw yet more new music genres adopt the boot. The brand also became synonymous with festival culture." - Dr Martens

Whilst subcultures such as emo, punk, grunge and nu-metal aren't still as prevalent in mainstream culture Doc Martens definitely still are. Whatever style, music or culture you're into, there's no denying that Dr Martens have a place across most cultural scenes as a go-to shoe.

Our Top 6 Dr Marten Influencers

1. Pete Townshed

It was Pete Townshend, lead guitarist of The Who, that first brought the Iconic 1460 to the attention of the public, wearing his as a symbol of solidarity with Britain’s working class.

2. The 70s & 80s: The Specials, Madness

Bands like The Specials and Madness championed the Dr Marten boot in the 1970s and 80s during 2 Tone and Ska revival, again as a nod to their working-class routes.

3. The 90s: Alice in Chains, Pearl Jam

It was bands like Alice in Chains and Pearl Jam that made sure the DM boot stayed a subculture favourite during the 90s.

4. The 10s: Miley Cyrus

Love this video or hate it, you can’t deny it got people talking, in 2013 Miley Cyrus rode naked on a wrecked ball in just her Docs.

5. The Present Day: Babymetal 

In more recent years, bands like Babymetal, a 3 piece kawaii metal band, have made the DM boot part of their signature Japanese Gothic and Punk Lolita style.

Rise and Fall of Dr Martens

By the early 2000s, the brand was experiencing a huge downward turn in sales, which resulted in store and factory closures across the UK. The brand launched a new range in 2004 aimed at young people, intended to be easier to break in and more comfortable to wear. In 2007 the original factory was back up and running, producing the hand-made boots, the traditional way.

Thanks to innovative collaborations with Vetements, Supreme and Yohji Yamamoto, the brand has stayed at the forefront of fashion in recent years. With a knack for reinvention and a reputation for quality, no doubt Dr Martens will be around for the next 60 years (your Docs will probably still be in good shape then too.)

Our Favourite Ways To Style Dr Martens

1. Toughen Up A Tea Dress

Pairing a cute, vintage, polka-dot or ditsy floral frock with a pair of DMs is the ultimate pretty but tough outfit to see you through festivals, parties, dates, summer and winter!

2. Laid-Back Luxe

A worn-in pair of Dr Martens boots are the best kind of Sunday shoe, they pair perfectly with your favourite pair of vintage Levi's and your comfiest over-sized sweater. This model-off-duty kind of look will take you from grocery shopping to brunch and to the pub in the comfiest of ways.

3. Desk to dancefloor dressing

Finding the perfect outfit for a Thursday is a different kind of dilemma, how do you find a work-appropriate outfit that will also take you straight through to the bar without having to pack a change of clothes? Simple, a chic knit or long sleeve top, a vintage midi skirt and a pair of DMs - Simple!

Now you know the rich history behind Dr Martens, why not check out our blog and get to know the story behind Nike! You can shop our range of vintage Doctor Martens boots and shoes here.

 Words Megan Flanagan-Hunter

Buy your own piece of history here

Help close the loop on fashion waste & sell us your pre-loved pieces <3

Hey vintage lovers...

We are all about Out with the New, In with the Old. And in our journey to bring our lovely customers more ways to be sustainable, and to help close the loop on fashion waste... we are launching our Exchange programme across all our stores in the UK & Sweden!

So what does this mean? If you want to clear out your closet... plus fancy a wardrobe refresh, our buy back can help! We're looking for the best designer, sportswear, workwear items and on trend, vintage pieces from the 70s to the 00s. 

Become part of the circular economy, bring in your best pre-loved and high street pieces, and get money off your next vintage purchase! Check out the list below that will be updated regularly with what we're on the hunt for and bring in your pieces in store. If there's anything we don't take, we can recycle for you with Love not Landfill in the UK, and Human Bridge in Sweden!

The Nitty Gritty

How it works...

1) Clear our your closet. Launder items you wish to sell to us.

2) Bring them to one of our stores.

3) Our team will look through your pieces and let you know what we'll take.

4) You'll receive 20% of the selling price in a Beyond Retro giftcard to spend in store

IMPORTANT!

- All pieces must be laundered before bringing them in.

- Please ensure all pieces are in excellent condition. We cannot accept damaged or stained items.

- Please keep an eye on what we are currently buying...

Find out more here

Brands we always love:

Designer ---> Aquascutum,  Balenciaga, Balmain, Berghaus, Burberry, Celine, Chanel, Chloe, Christian Dior, Comme des Garcons, Coogi, DVF, Dolce & Gabanna, Fendi, Givency, Gucci, Helly Hanson, Hudson Bay, Jaegar, Lanvin, Loewe, Mary Quant, Missoni, Miu Miu, Moschino, Oscar de la Renta, Prada, Pringle, Valentino, Versace, Yves Saint Laurent and any designer brands.

Brands ---> adidas, Ben Sherman, Calvin Klein, Carhartt, Champion, Coach, Columbia, Converse, Dickies, Diesel, Disney, DKNY, Dr Martens, Fila, Fred Perry, Fubu, Guess, Harley Davidson, Hugo Boss, Hunter, Kappa, Kenzo, Kickers, Le Coq Sportif, Lee, Levi's, MaxMara, Nike, Osh Kosh, Patagonia, Pendleton, Puma, Ralph Lauren, Reebok, Stussy, The North Face, Timberland, Umbro, Vans, Wrangler

Products we are buying now ---> Sports, Tshirts, Jeans, Jumpsuits, Playsuits, Dungarees, Flares, 90s shirts, 70s shirts, Silk Blouses, Sherpa lined denim jackets, Puffer Coats, 70s dresses, 70s blouses, Workwear, Silk Dresses, Denim shorts, Hawaiian shirts, 00s pieces, sweater vests, 80s dresses, 80s dresses, prairie dresses, prairie blouses